Dr Thierry Maillet

On 1 September 2013, Thierry Maillet started a three-year post-doc position at the history department of Erasmus School of History, Culture and Communication (ESHCC) in Rotterdam, in close collaboration with Ben Wubs. They will work together on the Enterprise of Culture project to explore fashion fairs and fashion prediction companies in Europe after 1945. 

Thierry Maillet took his PhD at L’École des hautes etudes en sciences sociales (EHESS), Paris with Prof.dr. Patrick Fridenson on 27 September 2013, titled Histoire de la médiation entre textile et mode en France : des échantillonneurs aux bureaux de style (1825-1975).

His thesis is about the role and functions of fashion prediction companies in France between fashion and textile (1825-1975). The development of several forms of mediation between textile and fashion over a century and a half is a little-known source of success of fashion and ready-to-wear in France.

As of 1825 a designer from the Vosges’ mountains, Jean Claude, moved to Paris where he made sketches of proposals on behalf of its clients in Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines. With a medal at the Exposition Universelle of 1878 in Paris, Jean Claude’s success bolsters new competition: sampling mediates the latest fashion trends towards professional textile in France and abroad. 

From 1920, the increased presence in Paris of buyers’ offices for the department stores from New York drives the emergence of a new profession: the styling within the brand new 'bureaus of stylists'. It is also the beginning of a history in conversation between Paris and New York in the fashion world.

After World War II, American influence through women's magazines and productivity missions facilitates the development of women designers in Paris. 

In the late 1950s a first bureau of stylist is launched and three others follow in the 1960s. Bureaus of stylist gain increasing influence thus confirming the role of mediation in the development of fashion.

Theirry can be contacted at maillet@eshcc.eur.nl